It rained
overnight and was still raining this morning when we woke. We stayed
snugged up in bed for a while just listening to the rain outside. We
had planned to go for a good walk today but neither of us were in
the mood for getting soggy so we had a slow start trying to suss out
the weather.
For the first time in Mortimer we did not have our healthy breakfast
(fruit yoghurt, cereal and maple syrup) as we have run out of
cereals and fruit. The local shop did have bacon and eggs so we ha
dour first fry up. Andy had told us how good the bacon was and he
was right, even better we had en excuse for mopping up the bacon fat
with a slice of bread, we could not possibly let that go into our
waste tank! Calorie packed it was delicious!
By the time we headed out it was early afternoon and although there
was still the odd shower it was starting to clear up. We had decided
to walk to Herring Cove a few kilometres along and into the park.
The way there took us part the Park's Information Centre and a
little further on from there there is a lookout point down on to
Alma beach, it is a pretty spectacular view. The tide was just
starting to turn and you could just start to make out where the mud
banks were in the bay. Further on we followed the road own to
another beach where there is a small outdoor saltwater swimming
pool. It looks closed now, either due to the weather or because it
is the end of season, but it is probably pretty packed in high
season.
The information board at the start of the walk confirmed that it was
through forest all the way. Although the skies were clearing it was
still very sticky and humid and even Stef was suffering from it
(normally it is just me). Knowing it would be an unpleasant walk in
the humidity, we had a change of plans and instead headed back into
Alma. On the way we took a little detour around the amphitheatre,
which is used for talks by the local rangers, and a little pond. The
pond was formed by a little bit of glacial ice that got separated
from the rest of the glacier. As it melted it carved out a big dip
(crater) which is where the amphitheatre is,. The pond is in the
middle of the crater and it is currently twenty metres deep. The
water was totally flat and still and almost looked black.
In Alma we went to find their local internet connection. They have a
Community Access Programme in New Brunswick (not sure if it is
Canada wide) which aims to provide internet access to all
communities. Most people have a home PC so it seems to be used
mainly by people traveling around. We went round to the back of the
Community Hall, up the stairs and were met with an incredibly
friendly "hello, do ya wanna use the internet?". The hour or so we
spent there was the most interesting and entertaining session we
have had in an internet cafe so far. For most of the time we were
the only people in there and got chatting to the people
working there, a lady and a young chap. As it is the end of season
they had been pretty quiet all day and were a bit bored. They were
having the type of silly conversation we all have when we get bored.
Another chap who works there kept coming upstairs and each time was
met with "Hello, do ya wanna use the internet?" followed by laughter
all round. Tonight is Bingo night. The bingo score (?) pads have ten
games in them but they only have time to play eight so bored and
desperate for something to do they spent the time ripping the top
two sheets off each score pad.
We got talking about all sorts of things from our travel so far to
thoughts on Charles and Camilla. We also got a whole load more
recommendations of places to go. The connection was pretty slow, but
amazing as it was a satellite link. Stef was trying to add some more
information to our site but it was too slow so we gave up and headed
out.
Blistering barnacles,
these things really
cut your feet to shreds!
Seeing a big sign for Colin's Lobster we stopped off to buy one for
dinner. You can either buy them live or pre cooked. There were two
tanks of live lobsters in the corner of the shop and an iced counter
with the cooked lobster. Not having space to cook a live one we
bought a pre-cooked one. The prices are written on their claws. We
asked about how best to eat it and were told that no-one here eats
lobster hot. We were told to simply mix it with mayonnaise and put
it in a toasted roll and munch away, so that is what we did. On the
wall they had the shell from a huge lobster that weighed 24 pounds.
We stopped at the general store for other bits and pieces then
headed on to the beach - we are probably the only people who go
beach walking taking our lobster and other shopping with us! As well
as its national park, Fundy is famous for its tides, allegedly the
highest in the world I had thought they come in quickly too but that
is not the case. It was low tide and the sea was about one kilometre
from the shore. Big stones gave way to mud and pebbles covered in
barnacles and we wandered out towards the sea.
Looking to the left to the hills beyond Alma there were really
unusual cloud formations. It was as if mist from the sea was
charging up to the rocks and over the opt. A big cloud followed the
contour of the mountain with different layers of colour, white
through different shade of grey. To the right and behind us the
clouds had cleared revealing clear blue skies, boding well for a
good day tomorrow. In the bay, markers poles guided the fishing
fleet through a narrow channel in the mud flats. They can only get
in and out at high tide. Even the channel buoy (big floating marker
with a bell on top) they wait by at low tide seemed to be stuck in
the mud. On the other side of the bay another pole measures the
height of the tide, it is twelve metres high.
Back at the campsite we were finally able to enjoy a long, lazy, al
fresco dinner, washed down with a bottle of Jackson Triggs, a very
pleasant and drinkable Canadian wine. We had bought nutcrackers and
lobster forks and tucked in. Needless to say Stef baled out of
pulling the lobster meat out of the shell as soon as he could!
