We have decided to stay for another day to do a
bit of sightseeing and shopping before moving on. We went back to
Second Cup to make the most of our internet 24 hours. It was mid
afternoon by the time we were done. We had an unsuccessful look at
Mountain Equipment to try and get some new trousers for Stef as one
of his pairs is uncomfy and he spends all day pulling them down.
After that we headed down to
the waterfront and walked down towards Pier 21 to where the cruise
ships dock. They get one or two every other day here, the QE2 was
here on Saturday but we missed her. Today there is the Maasdam from
Rotterdam and the Golden Princess from Hamilton, Bermuda. Apparently
they are small cruise ships but they look pretty big to me. I fancy
going on one just for a long weekend to see what it is like. Some
people love it, others hate it. I think it would probably make a
good girlie weekend.
Pier 21 has an interesting
history in its own right. It was the main immigration point of entry
for the 1 million people who have emigrated to Nova Scotia in the
first half of this century. There is now a small museum
commemorating this history. From the museum you get fantastic views
of the cruise ships. They were about to leave so we stayed to see
them go. Close up they really are big. We looked up the Golden
Princess on the internet. With 2,900 passengers and 1,100 crew there
are more people on this liner than there have been in many of the
villages we have passed through in both South America and Canada.
They really are floating towns. Considering their size, they have
relatively little tying them up to port, although their mooring
ropes were pretty big. They had automated winches on board to reel
the ropes back in. It took three people on the harbour to lift them
over the cleats they were tied to.
As it got to time to go more
and more people came out to sit on their balconies and to watch the
proceedings. A few were watching us watching them and waved
goodbye. The power of the engines was vast as the liner pulled out
into the channel. The whole process was well rehearsed and trouble
free. Stef got a great shot of the liner pulling away.
Having watched the liners we
then went through the Pier 21 exhibit. They had a short film
depicting the change in use of the Pier over the years. From the
1920's to World War II it was primarily a point of entry for
immigrants from around the world, people who came with nothing
hoping for a better life in Canada. Often they did not understand
the questions that the immigration officers asked as they did not
speak English but they were always relieved when they got the
"landed" stamp on their papers. Some people were refused entry but
they did not say what happened to them and there was no one
available to ask. Presumably they were sent back home. Others would
be short of the money they needed for entry and on occasion and
immigration office would help them out with the shortfall. Years
later some people when they were established would then send the
money back to the immigration officer.
With the onset of World War II
Pier 21 changed use to become a major departure point for the
Canadian military and their role in supporting the war effort around
the world. As the second largest natural harbour in the world, and
one that does not ice over in winter, Halifax was an important
supply post and was central to supporting convoys of supplies to
keep Europe going. With the combination of Halifax, Bermuda,
Gibraltar and Portsmouth the British Navy had the four corners of
the Atlantic covered, a major strategic strength. After the war Pier
21 was the entry point for orphaned Jewish children, war brides who
had married Canadian soldiers and their children. During the war
seven thousand children were also evacuated here from the UK. With
the change in transport from sea to air Pier 21 ceased to be an
immigration point in the 1970's.
After the Pier we carried on
to Alexander Keith's Brewery and their tour. Keith was a Scot who
had learned the brewing trade in the north of England before coming
to Canada. When he arrived in Halifax e took his credentials with
him to the local brewery in time becoming joint owner and then sole
owner of the brewery. He had been involved in creating India Pale
Ale (IPA) which was brewed specifically for British troops stationed
in India. All members of the British Armed Forces, where ever they
were in the world, were eligible for a daily ration of a gallon of
beer. Keith knew that with Halifax's military importance he was on
to a good thing.
Brewery tour
With his brewing skills he
soon made beer far superior to anything else that was available in
Halifax and hi business flourished and he prospered. He became a
well regarded member of the local community, serving as a Director
for many companies and holding the position of Mayor of Halifax a
couple of times.
One of the things they do well
in Canada is the tours of sights and monuments and this was no
exception. We were met by a very barrel shaped man who explained
that we were in the year 1870 something (or was it 1780 something?).
He led us through into Mr Keith's dining room (chairs very similar
to Mum and Dad's at home) and apologised that Mr Keith had been
delayed and would not be able to join us just yet (a theme repeated
throughout the tour). Here we were shown a short film about the
brewery before another "worker" came to show us the brewing process.
Their malt now comes from
somewhere in Canada but their hops still come all the way from Kent
in the UK. If they changed the hops the beer would no longer taste
the same! They still have Mr Keith's recipe under "lock and key" in
a big red leather bound book. The brewing room was full of copper
kettles and vats, each performing a different part of the process.
Copper is used because its a good insulator and coolant. We were
then taken by a serving girl through to the Stag's Head Pub. Here
she and two male waiters entertained us with song, dance and tales
while we were able to try the local brew - quite tasty. A quick hand
of three card brag (I won!), a visit to Mr Keith's office and then
it was back out the door through the tunnel that had been built
between the brewery and Keith Hall next door. This ensured that Mr
Keith was on hand and easily accessible at any time if he was needed
to support the brewing process.
All in all it was a fun visit
and worth doing. We decided to eat at the brewery (which was not
great) before heading back to camp and crashing out.
