Left Croydon this morning. Watching the sun set over the Pacific in the evening!
Packing etc. done we finally called a cab from EC station to take
us to LHR – the journey had started! Got there far too early in effort to secure decent seats on the
plane. Eventually check-in opened and the first coupons were used.
The rest was the usual airport story – a bit of shopping (bags &
fags), parked ourselves in the Iberia lounge courtesy of BAEC (does
have its uses now and then), and boarded our flight with some delay.
Normal seats – figured the good seats would be just for the long
haul. In Madrid it was a quick transit to the next gate (long walk
to A6), but had enough time to get at least 2 smokes in. Crap seats
but at least we had 2 to ourselves instead of 3 with an extra person
in our row.
Flight was in the dark for the trans-Atlantic part and we both
dozed through it, punctuated by the odd bit of food & drink. Finally
we’re somewhere over South America. What a beautiful dawn! Looking
out to “port” I can see the clouds below us, stretching away as far
as the eye can see. A spectrum of colours, from an intense red
(vermillion?) going through oranges & yellows to greens and the most spectacular turquoise, purples, etc. Its only a thin layer,
seen from the plane, above that the sky is still dark, and above
that the sky is still lit up with so many stars. Ness is asleep,
didn’t want to wake her – now wish I had. The screen says we’re
somewhere over Brazil. As it gets lighter we start to get glimpses
through the cloud – yes, there’s definitely land below but it’s
looking rather grey in this light. Later the cloud disappears
altogether and the views are of mixed territory: green flat country,
looking desolate, hardly any trees, mostly grass, and some roads
(tracks) running straight for very long distances. Then the country
becomes more organised, cultivated plots in neat squares, circles, a
patchwork of agriculture. As we get close to the Andes, according to
the screen, we can make out a mountain ridge. We get excited at
flying over the Andes but the sight fails to impress – was expecting
spectacular snow-capped peaks but this was just a brown ridge. Is
that it? The country-side that follows is more of the same – farmed
fields. Where is the Pacific? Then… see we were too soon – here are
the real Andes. Black mountains covered in dusted snow. They’re
high! Wild country, and it goes on and on. Most passengers are now
awake and those in the middle rows are craning necks to get a
glimpse.
Plane starts descent to Santiago while we’re still over the
Andes. The airport is small, modern, clean – anonymous – but devoid
of people. Saw a sign for the “ARS” bar – appealed to the little boy
in me. First bit of Spanish dusted off when I try to pay for coffee
& snacks. I was in a queue of people whose flight to Punta Arenas
was delayed and therefore entitled to a free “jamon y queso”
sandwich on presentation of their boarding card. Japanese guy behind
me helped me out! Tempted to buy an Inti Illimani or Ilapu CD but it
sounds like folkloristic traditional rubbish (Hypocrite! You’re
typing this up while playing the Inti Illimani CD you bought at
Santiago airpport on the way back!!) Considered the Groove Armada CD
instead but managed to leave WHSmith without buying anything.
Plane starts descent to Santiago while we’re still over the
Andes. The airport is small, modern, clean – anonymous – but devoid
of people. Saw a sign for the “ARS” bar – appealed to the little boy
in me. First bit of Spanish dusted off when I try to pay for coffee
& snacks. I was in a queue of people whose flight to Punta Arenas
was delayed and therefore entitled to a free “jamon y queso”
sandwich on presentation of their boarding card. Japanese guy behind
me helped me out! Tempted to buy an Inti Illimani or Ilapu CD but it
sounds like folkloristic traditional rubbish (Hypocrite! You’re
typing this up while playing the Inti Illimani CD you bought at
Santiago airpport on the way back!!) Considered the Groove Armada CD
instead but managed to leave WHSmith without buying anything.
I used to have one of those...
Plane starts descent to Santiago while we’re still over the
Andes. The airport is small, modern, clean – anonymous – but devoid
of people. Saw a sign for the “ARS” bar – appealed to the little boy
in me. First bit of Spanish dusted off when I try to pay for coffee
& snacks. I was in a queue of people whose flight to Punta Arenas
was delayed and therefore entitled to a free “jamon y queso”
sandwich on presentation of their boarding card. Japanese guy behind
me helped me out! Tempted to buy an Inti Illimani or Ilapu CD but it
sounds like folkloristic traditional rubbish (Hypocrite! You’re
typing this up while playing the Inti Illimani CD you bought at
Santiago airpport on the way back!!) Considered the Groove Armada CD
instead but managed to leave WHSmith without buying anything.
Right at the back for the flight to Arica, via Iquique. Got lucky
with seats on the “starboard” side – one long panorama of the Andes!
I fell asleep as Ness peered through the window. The cultivated
green of the Santiago area was nowhere to be seen when I woke up.
Just brown and grey, looking dusty. Very little, if anything, in the
way of “civilisation”. Guy sat behind us could snore for England!
Brief stop at Iquique, then a short hop to Arica – our destination
is in sight!
The airport is small, similar to El Calafate, and the Hertz desk
is… unmanned and apparently closed. Here we go. After a few minutes
two Hertz women arrive. We have [a] truck! Brand-new 4x4 pick-up –
toy!! Will have to play with this – Ness might not be too keen I
wonder… Must remember it takes diesel – shouldn’t be too hard with
that noise!
We manage to get to the
hotel by the back-route, rather than the
sea-side. Finally, finally… we are really here! Shower, change, and head for the terrace to have our welcome PS as the sun sets over the
Pacific. Eventually we both work up the energy to start the diairies,
fuelled by a few more PS’s! When I went up to order the third round,
the barmaid’s reply was an astonished “más?!” And that’s day 0+1!
PS. First beer in Chile at Santiago airport: can of “Crystal”
with a yellow bruiser on it! Took a picture. Tried to tell the waiter
that “es mi coche!”
PPS. Dinner in hotel restaurant, simple but effective. Mushrooms
out of a tin with my steak – maybe they were simply mushroom-shapes
(without mushroom flavour added!)
PPPS. Flowers at reception are fake, like most in the hotel and
even have fake dew-drops!
