Ness is happily snoozing, not bothered about rooftop breakfast (soft
pillow wins), so I’m on my own for huevos fritos on the rooftop of
the Carrera. The sun is bright and low over the Andes and I have a
good half hour enjoying breakfast and the views. The taxi driver to
the airport is very friendly and entertaining, fluent in English
which is nice. He tells us the best pisco brand is Alto del Carmen.
Also tells us about lots of other things, all I remember is the bit
about the bus-strike backfiring (the strike had the immediate effect
of reducing pollution levels).
We’re in good time for our flight and grab a drink at the cafeteria
at the far end of the terminal hall, right by our gate, 26, which I
consider a lucky coincidence – but Ness had of course noticed in
advance! We managed to get good seats on the plane, forward of the
wing on the side overlooking the Andes. The scenery is new to us
now, no longer the brown of the northern half of the country but a
patchwork of roads and fields. The snow-capped Andes are close by on
our left. Clouds obscure the view for part of the way and especially
when we near Temuco, but we do get the odd glimpse of the new
countryside. It’s green and lush, with clear signs of agriculture
and cultivation but to a much lesser extent than in the lands
immediately south of Santiago. Reminiscent of northern parts of
Britain. No, in fact it is totally reminiscent of England and I even
pointed it out to Ness. The green fields are separated by hedgerows
(they look like that from up here). The clouds are very low and the
final view remains hidden until we are well into our approach to the
runway, clouds flicking past until we’re finally below them. Temuco
airport is small, as expected. Hertz office is one of several
offices in a long cabin outside. We pick up our new, as yet unnamed
Basher. A grey Chevy, equivalent to the Toyota Hi-Lux. Cup-holders,
cushioned arm-rest, CD player, a bit sophisticated. Ness is the
first to make acquaintance and drives us to Pucón, and gets stopped
by two carabiñeros for speeding. We pick up farmer Pancho a bit
outside Villarica. I do my best to converse with him and manage to
understand something about his Czech friend Pedro (!) who is over
here looking to buy a piece of land to farm. We drop him off in
Villarica and he helps us on our way to Pucon, on route 199,
following the southern side of the lago. It really is very green
here, with many wooden buildings dotted here and there, and many
different types of trees.
Our hotel, Antumalal, lies on the lake shore a short distance (2km)
before Pucon town itself. It is accessed by a narrow cobbled road
which rounds a small wooded hill. The hotel lies behind this, a
piece of 1950’s avant-garde architecture. It is designed to be at
one modern, linear, and at the same time blend in totally with the
environment it occupies. Trees surround and blend in with the
building. We have room “1” although there are no numbers or locks on
the doors. Instead our names are placed on the door. Pictures in the
reception show that royalty and celebrities used to visit, probably
in Antumalal’s heyday as an architectural …er… new thing. It
includes Boudewijn and Fabioloa, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince
Philip, and various others. Our room, at the end of the long
corridor, is fantastic, with a wall-to-wall window looking out over
the gardens and lake. It is simply furnished, in similar 50’s
avant-garde style, with its own open fire, already prepared so all
we have to do is put a match to the kindling. There is tons of space
on little shelves in the cupboard, with a “fridge light” which keeps
me occupied for a few minutes.
After unpacking we head for the lounge and have a drink overlooking
the lake. Then we drive into Pucón to explore the place. Usual grid
system layout. It’s smaller than I imagined it but big enough to
provide variety. After a first tour we park speedy-basher on Fresia.
Tourist office is in the municipalidad but they’re not very helpful
and say “try the bookshop”. I want to buy the local trekking map and
spot a book with “23 trekking tours in central Chile”. Trying to
find a bookshop is a challenge. The bookshop on O’Higgins is cerrado
(closed) and there is no other bookshop. We stop for a coffee/hot
chocolate/sandwich (cerdo con pepperoncini…) at the Patagonia Café.
Then we try again. Bookshop now says abierto (open) but the door is
locked. Before the coffee we did find another libreria but it only
sold stationery. Got frustrated trying to explain what I was looking
for: a book, a bookshop, “una tienda con muchos libros”. Anyhow,
while we’re hovering near the bookshop the owner comes running back
and re-opens the shop. “Yes, this is bookshop. No, we don’t have the
book you’re looking for. Try such-and-such agency.” Such-and-such
agency say “try the tourist office.” Full circle. Back at the
tourist office I ask where exactly can I buy this book and map.
Should have known, the map can be obtained at Agua + Nieue tour
operator, the book at the Tetera travellers café. Ness has a bout of
travellers tummy and we have to make a pitstop. Maps are a
successful buy and we also manage to buy the book. Back at the hotel
I discover that it only covers the bit of Chile between Santiago and
just north of Temuco, i.e. no kin’ use to us whatsoever!
Before going out for dinner we have some help from Christian at the
hotel reception in planning our days here. I’m keen to climb the
volcano Villarica, and we can also do horse-riding and rafting. Ness
isn’t set on the volcano climb but happy for me to do it. Christian
sends us to Politur in town to make the booking. I try on the kit
I’ll need, plastic snow shoes, over-trousers, etc. and label them
with my name. Then we amble a bit and go for dinner at a Spanish
restaurant, no seafood tonight! Fabado bean and sausage stew is very
tasty, if a little lacking in the sausage department. Early start
for me tomorrow – it didn’t strike me that Ness would effectively be
totally on her own in a foreign country and start worrying about
what could happen if she were to go “off piste” with the car, but
Ness promises to be sensible and stick to touring around. We go to
sleep in our snug room. Should be a couple of good days ahead!
