23 Torres del Paine

Holidays and short breaks
Argentina (2001)
Chile (2002)
India (2003)
World trip (2005-2006)
Libya (2008)

Pictures
1 Croydon to Arica
2 Arica, Azapa Valley
3 Arica, Panam + Codpa
4 Arica, PN Lauca
5 Calama
6 Chuquicamata
7 Salar de Atacama
8 San Pedro de Atacama
9 Tatio and Puritama
10 Santiago
11 Santiago to Pucón
12 Pucón
13 Pucón, a lazy day
14 Termas de San Luis
15 Pucón, horse ride
16 Puerto Varas
17 Ancud
18 Chiloé
19 Chiloé, pinguineria
20 Puerto Varas, casino
21 Torres del Paine
22 Torres del Paine
23 Torres del Paine
24 Torres del Paine
25 Zapallar
26 Zapallar
27 Zapallar, rodeo
28 Long trip home

Chile

Tuesday 26 November 2002

A slightly later start today, just as well because we’re both feeling a bit stiff today! We have enough time for a proper desayuno and then meet the others in the lobby. There are fourteen in today’s group, including: Herr Two-Sticks and Babs – we have concluded that she is trying to kill him off so she can inherit his fortune, Karim and Paula, a nameless dour Franco-Swiss couple whose expression never changed from a continuous sneer, the “very nice boys” from Atlanta, a lesbian power-couple from New York (she is Chinese/Asian, more at home in an expensive art gallery, the other she is a documentary producer for PBS and totes a back-to-front baseball cap), they have the large suite with Torres views opposite our room, a Spanish couple, and a silver-haired British couple. The guides are Max, leading the group, Francesca, and new girl Camilla.

Again we are ferried across Lago Pehoe to the refugio. Today’s walk will be longer but flatter, taking us to the French Glacier, a small stand-alone glacier which empties directly into a river instead of a lake. The walk is much easier than yesterday, although Ness is struggling a bit with some of the uphill bits. We stick to the rear, for same reasons as yesterday. The weather today is grey and drizzly, and it doesn’t change for the rest of the day. After a first section we reach a viewpoint over Lago Skottsberg. The walk is then around the edge of the lake, climbing and descending a bit in parts. The scenery is less spectacular than yesterday, not helped by the weather.

At some point we meet a Canadian academic with his guide. Camilla, who brings up the rear with us, ends up in conversation with him as we continue walking. The prof is full of sh*t. He is here to advise on tourism infrastructure. He praises the “world class national park you have here”, i.e. the setting and scenery (there is nothing else!) but complains that the paths are not world class. “How are you going to get a medical team with a stretcher up and down here?” He rambles on in this fashion and soon gets on my nerves. Plan A, stop to let him by, doesn’t work because Camilla has to stay at the rear and he’s happy to stay there too and continue waffling. Plan B, go faster, has no effect since they easily speed up too and keep up with us. Plan C, tell him to put a sock in it, is being considered but fortunately Camilla cottons on before its execution and carries on a bit ahead of us with the prof, then lets him go and rejoins us.

At the start of the walk we saw a group of horses being driven on by a female horse-rider (would she be a huasa?), galloping towards us over the crest of the hill. I didn’t get the camera out in time but it was a fantastic “wild west” sight seeing these horses running free. We also saw a hare, again at the start of the hike. We didn’t see any other significant wildlife and didn’t even hear many birds. Like yesterday we did see the odd vulture (condor?) now and then. We stop for refreshment after crossing the footbridge across a stream, the Rio de Frances, and then carry on up. Refreshment is a selection of teas (!), “Prince of Wales”, etc. The walk is now more a climb, with views of the French glacier to our left. We’re walking through a forest of low lenga trees. Lunch is among another group of lenga trees, with views of the glacier. The rug is spread with sandwiches, drinks, etc. Coffee and Baileys to follow.

Again there is the option of continuing a bit further up or turning back. We turn back together with the lesbian couple, Herr Two-Sticks, and the British silver-haired woman, with Francesca. The others carry on. The walk back is along the same route. I end up walking behind Two-Sticks and have a conversation with him. He already has his travel plans for the next five years worked out. I run into the Belgians again, in two separate groups, and have a pleasant chat with them.

Seeing the distance we have covered, around the lake, makes me realise how long a hike we have actually made. Pretty good going for two lazy city slickers. We arrive back at the refugio and warm up inside. Herr Two-Sticks buys everyone tea and coffee. Inside there are many hikers. The others arrive after about an hour and we board the waiting boat. Max promised us a quote by Shackleton and after handing out beers he delivers his promise:

“We were the fools who could not rest in the dull earth we left behind, but burned with passion for the south, but drunk strange frenzy of its winds, the world where the wise men sit at ease fade in front of our unregretful eyes, and thus across these uncharted seas we stagger on our own enterprise.”

Ernest Shackleton, 1916, Punta Arenas, as quoted by Max at Explora, 2002.

Back at the hotel we change and shower, then head downstairs to find a guide and have dinner. First I try to catch up on diary in the smoking lounge but plans are scuppered by Holland and Portugal, never mind. Nigel and Mhairie join us when we are talking with the guide, Anna Maria. Her nickname is Titi, and we embarrass/amuse her by explaining how that would be interpreted in English. I go for the Torres hike, Ness chooses the “photo safari” and barbecue (quincho). Nigel also goes for the Torres, and Mhairie whines about horse-riding. I borrow some gloves from her for tomorrow. We have dinner with Nigel and Mhairie, the gay couple, and two American couples. Pasta with veggies for dinner. I “retire” to the smoking room where Ness later joins me.

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