Today we have booked on a tour to go whale watching and to the Isla
de la Plata, known as the poor mans Galapagos. We were ready to go
at 9am but a sign at the hotel said it was not until 9:30 so we
headed back to our room for a while. We were then surprised to see
the hotel owner running down to room to tell us the tour was
waiting for us.
We jumped into the waiting moto-taxi which took us
into town where we paid for the tour and the entrance to the
national park. The taxi driver was berated by the tour guide for
keeping the tour waiting. We were then rushed down to the beach,
shoes off, trousers rolled up, waded through the water (only knee
high) to get on the boat, one of several going the same way. As the
last on we got stuck near the front with less open space around us
for views.
The usual safety preamble was given but
disconcertingly they told us not to move about the boat, and when we
saw whales not to all go to one side of the boat, as it would affect
its stability! There was a mix of people on board - local
Ecuadorians, French people, a group of Germans and Americans, one of
whom was an attention seeking female who was irritating all day. We
later found out that privately we had both hoped she would topple
overboard as she leant out the windows without her life jacket on.
Unfortunately she did not give us the pleasure.
We did see humpback whales but they were as bit
thin on the ground (or in the water!) compared to the expectation
that had been set. This is meant to be prime whale watching season.
Mostly we got views of flippers, "the arses of whales" Stef kept
saying. By the time cameras were ready to go the whales had gone.
One did do a full blown arc out of the water running parallel to the
side of the boat and only about ten metres away. We also had one
pair swim towards the boat then disappear, they must have swum
underneath us.
At the island there was time for a quick trip
to the loo, a piece of banana cake and some water before we were
off. The hotel had not really explained what would happen on the
island, and as we had come for a whale watching tour we had not
asked. There are walks here, all accompanied by a guide. The climate
is hot and very humid and the pace for the walk was fast. At the end
of a steep uphill but the group split into two. We carried on up to
the high point of the island from where we had great views
Along the way we passed blue footed boobies (a
type of bird for those of you who like me before this trip have not
got a clue what they are), so named because their feet are pale
blue. The male and female both make odd sounds and they are very
territorial birds. They mark their territory with their droppings
and are aggressively protective of their space. We saw pairs
starting to get pretty angry with each other. They are used to
visitors and happily amble around very close to passing feet.
We also saw a couple of albatrosses and a few
masked boobies. No sea lions and no lizards (except for one tiny
one). I had expected more wildlife but expect the scarcity is why
the "poor man's Galapagos" title has stuck. The islands name, which
means Silver Island, comes from an old tale that Sir Francis Drake
buried treasure here so that his ships would sail faster around
South America. No treasure has ever been found. It could just be a
tale or it could be that the treasure has been swept away by the
strong tidal currents here.
We learnt a bit about humpback whales but I have
been slack in keeping my diary up to date. Its Sunday as I write and
I cannot really remember what we were told. A very fast and very hot
"march" across the island took us back to the boat. We had no idea
what the hurry was for. Turned out it was to ensure there was time
for people to go snorkeling for twenty minutes if they wanted to.
Some did but not many. We were then whizzed back to Puerto Lopez.
It had been quite a long day, we were back at
around 5:30pm, and we were both hot and sticky. One the beach we got
talking to a British couple who were asking if the tour was
worthwhile. We arranged to meet them for a drink later then headed
off to get our bags and check into the Hotel Pacifico. This was
totally different too Mandala. Madala was rustic charm, no air con.
Pacifico was tiled, white, clean and cool with a spacious room, air
con and a small pool in the garden. It was a deliciously cool way to
end the day.
Hauling the catch at Puerto Lopez
Even though the hotel was smart they had kept
true to Ecuadorian building form. Everywhere you look things seem
unfinished. Mortar between bricks is just squidged out and not
smoothed off, windows do not fit, walls have gaps. Even here where
most of the building had been plastered smooth and painted, there
was one whole wall running the stretch of the hotel that was left
unfinished.
Showered and changed we headed off to meet Martin
and Annie. They are from Ilford and are traveling and doing
voluntary work for two years, both on sabbaticals from work. They
started in Venezuela and have just finished two months at a school
in Itacunga teaching (for the first time) English to the local kids.
They are then heading down through Perú, Bolivia, Argentina and
Chile and may also go to Uruguay and Paraguay.
We spent the evening swapping stories and
experiences of where we have been, what we have seen and where we
are on to next. We headed to Carmita's for dinner, pretty much the
same fare as last night but more expensive.
For us it was a late night. We got back to our
hotel at eleven-ish. On the way we passed a house with lots of
chairs lined up outside on the road. They had been arranged as if
they were in a church and I had half expected to see some sort of
religious ceremony underway, especially as the door to the "disco"
had now been closed (the flashing lights were still visible) showing
that it was church affiliated. It was not a religious ceremony as
such. In the front room of the house was a large, ornate coffin
decorated with flowers. The people on the road outside were
obviously mourners taking part in a night time vigil. It would have
made a great photo but I do not think we would have been popular if
we had taken one.
