We
hired a car for the day so that we could get out and about and
explore Penang Island. We headed first to Penang Hill where a
funicular railway takes you the seven hundred metres up to the top.
The funicular was a really slow chugging affair that only runs every
half an hour. Typically we had just missed one so we stood and
waited for the next one to go. It takes you half way up then you
have to change on to another one that goes up to the summit.
From the top you can get some pretty spectacular views down
and across George Town and to Butterworth on the mainland. On a
clear day you can see Langkawi Island further north but it was too
hazy for us to do that today. The hill originally provided respite
from the city heat for the British Governors and wealthy families of
Penang. Some of the old colonial houses are still standing and on
the way up more modest houses belonging to local people dot the
paths and trails leading to the top.
The Bellevue Hotel, the only one on the hill, had a small
aviary outside which Stef went to have a look at while I waited in
the cool shade of a tree. Lonely Planet describes the hotel as a
little frayed around the edges and overpriced and they were accurate
on both counts. The buildings looked well and truly in need of a
refurb and even the views out and across George Town from their
patio at the back did not make the cost of the drinks worthwhile.
Those in the know simply came in to take a photo and then left, much
to the chagrin of the staff!
At
the snake temple
We had thought the trip up the hill would be a relatively
quick diversion but the slow progress of the funicular (half an hour
each way without the time you have to wait for the next one) meant
that it was over two hours before we were back on the road. We
doubled back on ourselves turning right at the State Mosque to head
down to the south of the island. The traffic was pretty busy,
possibly because it’s the weekend and everyone was out and about.
Although the cars were fairly disciplined the car rental agency’s
warning about the scooters was spot on. They seemed to just appear
out of nowhere zipping in front of you and alongside when you wanted
to turn. It is incredible that there are not continual accidents.
Our next stop was the Snake Temple, so named because they have
snakes draped on the incense burners inside the temple. The snakes
are venomous pit vipers and signs are all over the place warning you
not to aggravate or touch them. They looked pretty docile but even
so I would have hated to see them move. As we walked around the
temple Stef spied a stand with more snakes on. For a hefty fee you
can have your photo taken with the snakes draped around your head
and shoulders and he went for it. He looks decidedly uncomfortable
in the photos and I think he was quite glad to get rid of them. They
were also pit vipers but with their fangs removed.
Apparently the pit vipers make their own way to the temple.
Not so the other snake that they have in a snake farm off to the
side, for which you also have to pay. Here they had about thirty or
so small cages with a variety of different snakes from around the
world. Most were small and came in various different shades of
brown, green, yellow, orange and black. In a large cage in the
middle of the “farm” they had a python which was seven metres long
and weighs sixty kilos. They feed it five chickens a month. In a
smaller cage off to the side were two smaller pythons with their
mouths tied shut. The man watching them took off his shoe and
prodded one which quickly went on the attack and would have bitten
him had it been able to. It was a strange stop but quirky to see.
The road continued down to the south of the island then turned
to head inland and back up to the north. We soon left the flat and
started to climb up through dense jungle which all along the side of
the road is now populated. People here seem better off than those we
have seen elsewhere in South East Asia. Their houses, while still
simple, looked stronger and more sturdy and cars were in most
driveways.
At the village of Balik Pulau we stopped for lunch to try the
local speciality of laksa balik pulau. The village is pretty small
and we had soon walked the length of the main street. At the end
were a few hawker stalls selling street food, one of which had the
local speciality, the only place in town where we had seen it. It
was a bowl of rice noodles in a thick fishy soup with pineapple,
chilli and onions. It was pretty tasty but also had a fiery kick to
it. We were the only non-locals in the place and the two ladies sat
at the table next to us seemed intrigued to see us there.
Does this need any explanation?!?
From Balik Pulau we continued north in search of the Tropical
Fruit Farm. The directions in Lonely Planet are a bit wonky as it
has the farm south of the Titi Kerawang waterfall when it is
actually north. The waterfall itself was totally miscible as no
water falls here now. It is something to do with a new dam that has
been built further downstream but why that stops the waterfall is
beyond me.
The fruit farm was definitely worth a visit. Your entrance fee
gets you a guided tour and a free taster of various different fruits
at the end. The farm was set up about ten years ago, opening to the
public a few years later once the plants had become established.
Privately owned but supported with government funding it is not a
commercial operation. It has been set up for educational and
research purposes and to help conserve rare and exotic fruit trees.
In the twenty five acres of the farm they grow over two
hundred different types of fruit, including thirty different types
of banana. The male banana plant has what looks like a large seed
pod that grows on a stalk in the middle of the plant. It is in fact
a flower with each leaf hiding a row of small pods which in turn
become the bananas.
The varieties they have here include monkey bananas, tiny
bananas the size of a little finger which are not for eating but
produce really beautiful flowers. They have various different edible
types all with a slightly different flavour, right through to large
plantains used for cooking. It is the wrong season for most of the
fruits but we saw quite a wide variety, albeit at different stages
of growth. Among others we saw kaffir lime, lemongrass, avocado,
betel nut, butter fruit (which had a fabulous scent), custard
apples, dragon fruit (which are cactus flowers), the tree of the
very smelly durian, Asian fig, mango, mangosteen, nutmeg, pineapple
and rose apple.
At the end of the tour we also had the chance to sample some
of the fruits. I had expected a few little tasters but we were each
presented with a large plate of fruit – different melons, apples,
guava, pineapple, mango, star fruit, mangosteen, bananas – and fresh
fruit juices to wash it all down with. We certainly got a vitamin C
boost today!
By the time we left the fruit farm it was already well past
five and the swimming pool at our hotel was beckoning to both of us.
We followed the road up to the north coast of the island and then
headed east back to George Town. Pretty much the whole of this part
of coastline has now been taken over by large hotels and apartment
complexes. Where you could see the beach the sand looked lovely and
soft but the beaches were narrow and the water did not really look
inviting to swim in. Even the Penang Swimming Club must think so as
their headquarters along the bay had a swimming pool on its terrace.
Back at our hotel we dropped off the car and headed into the
pool to cool down. The water has felt pretty chilly both days but
today it seemed even colder. By contrast the whirlpool felt almost
too hot so it was a difficult choice of where to relax. Refreshed
and showered we headed back to the Indian place we had trued on our
first night here and had another really tasty dinner for the grand
sum of £3. It goes to show what a big margin most places add to
their costs when you can eat as well and as cheaply as this.
