Peru

Preparations
South America
North America
Asia
Africa
Europe
Returning home

Pictures
Route
1 Arriving in Lima
2 S. American Explorers
3 On to Paracas
4 Paracas
5 Getting to Nazca
6 The Nazca Lines
7 Arriving in Arequipa
8 To the Colca Canyon
9 Colca Canyon
10 Back in Arequipa
11 Final day in Arequipa
12 Stranded in Arequipa
13 En route to Cuzco
14 Cuzco
15 Cuzco
16 Machu Picchu
17 Back to Lima
18 Lima
19 Lima to Trujillo
20 Trujillo ruins
21 Máncora
22 Máncora
23 Máncora
24 Last day in Máncora

Our route is shown in red (click map for a more detailed version)

•	Lima (from Asunción via Santiago)
•	Paracas (Islas Ballestas)
•	Nazca
•	Arequipa
•	Chivay (Colca Canyon)
•	Arequipa
•	Cuzco
•	Machu Picchu (day trip)
•	Lima
•	Trujillo
•	Máncora
•	And on to Ecuador...

Peru

Peru is a major backpacker destination and we haven't really thought about it too much. It's just that it sort of lies between Bolivia and Ecuador, two places that were on our list, so it made sense to go through it rather than skip it. Do we "do" the traditional Inca Trail or not?

Update Jun 2005: Since we're skipping Bolivia we're moving directly from Paraguay to Peru. Now that we have had a chance to read up a bit on Perú we can't wait to get there. It just sounds so colourful and interesting.

Update 13 Jul 2005: We finally managed to drag ourselves away from Máncora, on the north coast of Peru, this morning to head up into Ecuador. Peru has been an experience but we have really only scratched the surface of this large country. As with all other countries we have been to in South America the people here have been very friendly and welcoming. It's not a wealthy country and the poverty we saw in some areas reminded us of India, as did the dirt - it's a dusty place and people throw litter and rubbish everywhere.

The country is steeped in history, tradition and culture, something you do not really hear about from a European perspective. So much happened here before Columbus "invented" America. Complex cultures, intricate buildings and many stories to tell. Parts of the country are stunning to see and are well worth a visit. The Nazca lines, condor spotting, Machu Picchu and Máncora were probably the highlights.

Would I come back? Probably yes as there are bits we missed, mainly due to me succumbing to altitude sickness. We also did not make it into the Amazon or into the cordillera blanca.

Should you go? Definitely, but be prepared. The south of Peru in particular is just one big gringo tourist trail. They know you are coming, where you have come from and where will be next on your list. There is high competition and it can get tiresome being hounded during the day by people trying to clean your shoes, sell you tat and get you into their restaurant. All of this is not helped by the fact that the tourist industry here is not particularly well coordinated and organised. Also be aware of the altitude and take it seriously if you start to feel unwell. However, the North was entirely different and much less populated by tourists.

Diary

	Mon	Tue	Wed	Thu	Fri	Sat	Sun	Mon	Tue	Wed	Thu	Fri	Sat	Sun
Jun	6	7	8	9	10	11	12	13	14	15	16	17	18	19	Jun
Jun	20	21	22	23	24	25	26	27	28	29	30	1	2	3	Jul
Jul	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	11	12	13	14	15	16	17	Jul

Books, Films, Music, Links, etc.

For more references, check the links section.
•	Death in the Andes, The Feast of the Goat and The War of the End of the World, by Mario Vargas Llosa.
•	The Conquest of the Incas, by John Hemmings. Recommended as the best history of the Conquistadors. Might seem daunting at first but definitely worth persevering with. What I like most about the book is its balance between European and Inca points of view.
•	Café Inkaterra, by Miki Gonzales (Music). A mellow "new age" spin on traditional Peruvian music. It was played on our train up to Machu Picchu.
•	El Condor pasa, by Simon & Garfunkel, among many many others. The stereotypical Peruvian ditty as practiced by bands wherever there are gringos!

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